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Zaghouan
lies seductively on a few hills below the dramatic Zaghouan Mountain,
which rises 1,295 out of almost nothing but flat plains.
It was an important town in Roman times, then known as Ziqua,
administering one of the most important water resources for Carthage. A
few interesting traces of this past is found in town, like a triumphal
arch and a fountain as big as a temple but most of it is from the
resettlement in the 17th century by immigrants from Andalucia.
Streets
climb up and down the hills, they are lively and friendly and has many
stalls selling excellent grilled food. Zaghouan's sights include a
well-maintained zawiyya and a modern mosque with an attractive minaret.
Rose water is a local speciality, called nisri, but it is quite
expensive compared with the bottles you may pick up at a Monoprix. But
quality may be superior?
Zaghouan
offers one of the best hikes for travellers doing north-eastern Tunisia
at summer time. Up here in the mountains, not much more than one hour
travel from the capital, the climate changes, and the nature is green
and fresh even in August. The summit of Zaghouan Mountain may be
reached if you start from the Water temple, but it is a hard hike, or you can drive to the top
Zawouia of Sidi Ali Azouz
 For most climbing the streets of Zaghouan, the 19th century zawiyya of
Sidi Ali Azouz is the goal. It is sometimes also referred to as a
mosque. It is situated attractively on the top of a hill, with a large
dome covered with deep green tiles.
Sidi
Ali Azouz is nothing less than the patron saint of Tunis, where he has
another zawiyya, but as far as I know, this is the place where he is
buried.
The
interior can be visited by anyone, for the caretaker, tourists
represent his main source of income. The inner parts are really
claustrophobic, and I remember the problems I had taking a decent
photo, espcially since I had no wide-angle there and then. The interior
of the tomb has first class tile works, and is just as beautiful as
anything you'll see in Bardo museum in Tunis. The tomb itself is raised
inside, and many items, books, pictures and candles are put on top of
it.
There
is a dark corridor leading to a tiny courtroom. On one side there are
the quarters of the caretaker, on the other side the tomb. All is in
excellent condition.
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